Route Summary
Duration: 8 days – 1,590 kms
This for most with flights into account is the perfect two week adventure. Add a day off in Hanoi, Tam Coc and Sapa and you’ve done the Far North West properly. April/May works but ideally September/October.
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Day 1: Hanoi – Tam Coc – 140 kms
Hanoi – Tam Coc
Distance: 140 kms
Getting out of any city can be challenging and for sure Hanoi drivers and riders can be unpredictable. The first few kilometres will be slow going unless you are away early. If not, wait until after 9am when the rush eases.
You’re soon onto a bypass on the levee bank following the Red River and all is good. We stay off the QL1A sticking to secondary arterials and generally its a pretty clean 14km run out of the city.
We get our first look at some mountains where we split the Ha Nam and Hoa Binh provinces.
(A-F) on this map are simply pins to keep it interesting and away from traffic the best possible.
(G) on the map is the Trang An Caves boat tour. Don’t miss this wonderful experience where the water scenes for King Kong were filmed.
The best of many tours offered in the area if having a day off here or in early enough to squeeze it into the afternoon. Last boats leave at 3.30pm for the full three hour tour.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
The Tam Coc Garden Homestay – 0974 224 655 / +84 38570 0999 WhatsApp
Perfectly located and has a great pool. Also has a stocked fishing lake next to the dining table too. One of my favourites in the area
MAP LINK BELOW
From Hanoi Railway Station to Tam Coc Garden Homestay, village, Đam Khê Trong, Hoa Lư, Ninh Bình via Đường Lê Duẩn and Nguyễn Khoái.
3 hr 51 min (137 km)
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Day 2: Tam Coc – Pu Luong – 170 kms
Tam Coc – Pu Luong
Distance: 170 kms
Tam Coc Garden is perfectly located to enjoy the dawn with a morning walk or ride. The walk out the back has a cemetery and some beautiful mountains perfect to throw a drone up. The dawn over the rice fields pretty special.
(A) If opting for a short ride, out to the main road but turn left rather than into town and you’ll come to a dead end where there’s a temple and a coffee lady.
Another great drone flight up over the mountains behind the temple and along the ranges back toward town.
(B) gets you on the best run out and starting point of the best Caves tour in the area.
The morning ride is a pleasant one following the Hoang Long and Boi River systems to Uncle Ho’s Road. Shortly after crossing provinces you turn right and follow the River to this awesome Waterfall.
(C) Across from the entrance is this lady who will look after your bike, organize beers and cook lunch while you’re having a swim. Ask for running chicken, hubby goes off, catches it and it’s barbecued by the time you get back. Tougher than normal chicken but delicious and local to the mountain country.
Can change into your swimmers there and make sure you do. There is something about this particular waterfall that just feels different to others.
(D) is another great lunch option before the afternoon ride. Beautiful through the mountains as you start to realise you are getting more remote.
(E) another great swim spot but both recommended night options have awesome pools so easy to miss this one.
(F & G) are my two favourites of many over the years. More on that in accommodation options.
One of the really great areas in the country and this day for me day one of three absolute beauties. If you have time to stay some great loops in the area also. Sunrise even with low cloud is still okay from Gurties perspective.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Boutique Garden – 0869 641 813
One of the best value for money I’ve found. Bit of a trick finding the track into it. Might need to ask or ring. Google gets a bit loose up there.
Natura Bungalows – 0971 336 650
Last time though, my favourite so far. As soon as I saw my room number I thought it was meant to be. Great room, awesome views and so well looked after stayed an extra day.
MAP LINK BELOW
From Tam Coc Garden Homestay, 6W8G+CJ4, village, Đam Khê Trong, Hoa Lư, Ninh Bình to Pu Luông Natura, Bản Đôn, Bá Thước, Thanh Hoá 450000.
4 hr 3 min (170 km)
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Day 3: Pu Luong – Hoa Binh Lake – 95 kms
Pu Luong – Hoa Binh Lake
Distance: 95 kms
I thought I had the mapping from Pu Luong to Ta Xua pretty nailed until I explored this option late last year. We went right through to Bac Yen but this is the way I’ll do it next.
The morning ride through the nature reserve and then up the range is sensational.
(A, B & C) All great view points. The views back over the valley are as good as it gets.
Some interesting riding on the plateau too as very basic living standards and farming techniques.
Later in the morning you’ll encounter the Da River for the first time. As you enter the lakes area the beauty takes another twist. The riding around this lakes area very special. More brilliant drone country.
(D) The Go Lao Waterfall on Hoa Binh Lake is another great swim opportunity and possibly could again coordinate it with lunch if the timings right.
(E) After you check in, possibly as it’s an overshoot, is a great sunset viewpoint.
(F) There are plenty of cheaper options in the area but if you want to spoil yourself this is one of my favourites. Not cheap but so worth it.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Mai Chau Hideaway Resort – 0986 699 866
This is the bomb!
Ba Khan Village Resort – 0218 3832 666 looks to be the pick of the rest around the lake.
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From Pu Luông Natura to Mai Chau Hideaway Lake Resort via CT02/QL15C.
3 hr 8 min (93 km)
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Day 4: Hoa Binh Lake – Ta Xua – 155 kms
Hoa Binh Lake – Ta Xua
Distance: 155 kms
155 km up with my favourites today. Not a big day distance wise but tight so still a full enough ride with plenty of photo opportunity and wow factor.
(A) is a waterfall very close to your accommodation. The first view where I took this shot. The path down is around the next right turn.
(B, C, D & E) Are all waterfalls. Unless you have a waterfall fetish you probably won’t do them all. Drop (D & E) possibly.
(F) The ferry crossing where you revisit the Da River is a safe and pleasant experience.
(G) The road up to Ta Xua from the Village is a bit broken up in places but almost no traffic so you have plenty of space to smooth it out. You’ll see lots to keep you entertained in this wonderful remote part of the North West.
Loads of accommodation options these days but (H) is the best of numerous I’ve tried over the years.
(I) The Dragon Spine at sunset or sunrise is spectacular. Worth the walk if not the ride.
My first ride to the end of the Dinosaur Spine still rate’s as one of my most memorable adventure day rides ever but not without risk. To get to the end (second photo) you have a 30 metre section around 30cm wide and a sheer drop both sides!
Also overlooking the spine and this wonderful valley don’t miss the pork skewers. Delicious.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Plenty of options these days. When I was first up here we stayed in Bac Yen and a few years traveled up the mountain in the dark for the dawn. A bit sketchy in places so spoilt now on the mountain.
May’s House Homestay – 098 624 887
Right where you want to be. Great people and lovely little cabins.
MAP LINK BELOW
From Mai Chau Hideaway Lake Resort, Xóm Suối Lốn, Mai Châu, Hòa Bình to Sống Lưng Khủng Long – điểm Săn Mây, Háng Đồng, Bắc Yên, Sơn La via TL450.
4 hr 55 min (155 km)
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Day 5: Ta Xua – Dien Bien Phu – 275 kms
Ta Xua – Dien Bien Phu
Distance: 275 kms
You don’t remember every breakfast but you will remember this one. Lots on offer but the hot coffee and skewers take a bit of beating.
Can be fogged right in early and you may want to get on the move before the sun burns it off but the local kids with the cattle women doing the cooking make it quite an experience.
Other mornings if there was a heaven this is what it looks like.
If I’m staying an impromptu day this is it for me and happens often. Such a hard area to drag myself away from.
First up backtracking off the mountain to the village in the valley some areas may be under heavy cloud. Take it easy as the surface is also broken in places.
Then rather than the main road we wind along the river on a great road to meet the main arterial to Son La for lunch. Got a bit chilly last time through there so kitted up!
You’ll see ladies in this area with perfectly groomed hair buns. They are married. If their hair is down, available. These ladies wear their riding cap on top of the bun with extended straps. Some actually get a pod for the bun to fit in riveted into the helmet. Hilarious!!
The road to Dien Bien Phu from Son La is one of the greats. Wide sweeping and heaps of grip. If you’re not getting the pegs down there you won’t anywhere.
I haven’t got the exact location of this photo for some reason but if you spot it on the right hand side just before a left hander had great views and friendly people for a refreshment break.
(G) Is a good clean and tidy hotel. Nothing much has excited me over the years here so if you find a gem let me know.
(H) Is the morning walk.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Information coming soon
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6 hr 20 min (272 km)
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Day 6: Dien Bien Phu – Sa Pa – 338 kms
Dien Bien Phu – Sa Pa
Distance: 338 kms
Although this reads at 338 kms, 60 kms is cut off if you don’t take the hydro dam detour. The ride is pretty open so with an early start you should be able to do at least some of it comfortably.
You’ll see many Muong Villagers in traditional dress out of town. Unfortunately in recent years this in tourist areas has become very commercial but out here genuine country people .
(E) On your way into Sapa, Mount Fansipan, Indochina’s highest peak really is a sight to behold if the weather is right.
Probably worth a hotels search here with so much on offer. I’ve stayed in a variety of accommodation but if your budget allows this is my favourite. Location, views and awesome views from an exceptional pool.
If you are planning to explore Sapa and would like a guide I highly recommend A, pronounced ‘Ahh’ – 0947 360 557, WhatsApp also. Lovely girl, native to the area with great English and a sense of fun.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Information coming soon
MAP LINK BELOW
Shared route – From Mường Thanh, Điện Biên Phủ, Dien Bien to Bamboo Sapa Hotel, 18 Mường Hoa, TT. Sa Pa, Sa Pa, Lào Cai via Đ. Võ Nguyên Giáp.
7 hr 49 min (342 km)
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Day 7: Sa Pa – Nghia Lo – 230 kms
Distance: 230 Kms
Your destination on the map today is an exceptional hotel and as such have never ventured to stay elsewhere.
Not a big day distance wise but you will fill the day in with some of the great photography areas in the country.
(A) and (B) are a waterfall and glass bridge attraction. Both worthy of a look but together with many other attractions close to town, best done on a hire scooter in casual wear the day before in my opinion.
(C) whilst not marked as such is the best roadside photo stop for Fansipan. Get your bike right off the road and no problems.
(D) is a great rice field area. September is optimum for month to see the terraces in gold before the harvest.
(E) is the rice tray viewpoint. Spectacular in season but a track rather than a road up there might discourage some on bigger bikes.
(F) Another waterfall and a bit of a trek off the road but nice enough if you want to stretch the legs.
(G) is where you can pay to paraglide into a massive valley. A really beautiful area with ammenities. My preferred lunch stop.
(H) is a tourist information centre but going this way you’ve done most of what they will be promoting.
(I) Your home for the night should you choose so. Not cheap but the infinity pool and bar service to it is exceptional.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
Information coming soon
MAP LINK BELOW
From Bamboo Sapa Hotel to Dragonfly Hotel Nghĩa Lộ
5 hrs 57 min (231 kms)
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Day 8: Nghia Lo – Hanoi – 190 kms
Distance: 190 Kms
Though I really like the accommodation I was a bit disappointed last time around with breakfast. Unless it’s not extra I’d experience a local cafe. Call by the restaurant though and say g’day to the parrot.
There’s never too much to get excited about coming to the end or a tour particularly if finishing in a densely populated city. This ride however is not too bad. The first half of the ride you’re still in the mountains.
It’s a four hour day, five with stops so time it to get into the capital mid afternoon for the best deal with traffic.
(A) A nice family restaurant for lunch. Good Vietnamese food in a comfortable setting.
(B) Is a coffee rest stop. One of many before the country flattens out for the run into the capital.
When deciding on your accommodation options consider approximaty to your way out. If flying or on the train the Old Quater will be closer but if Westlake is your preference not so far either really.
If your stay in the Old Quarter on a weekend the Hoan Kiem Lake is shut off to traffic and a pretty cool scene.
Plenty of bar and food options in this area also.
The Tay Ho, West Lakes area is the other to consider for your accommodation. Most expats live in this area and also has plenty of great restaurant and bar options.
Good place to wake up to. The morning walk around this lake is exceptional as far as major cities go.
ACCOMMODATION OPTIONS
The Hanoi Prince Hotel 0324 8289 465 is nothing special but the guy looks after us well. Can put the bike inside at night and its perfectly located in the Old Quarter.
Central Hotel – 0913 051 205 also Old Quarter, as a higher end option also well located.
The Hanoian Hotel – 0243 933 1166 is a 3 star well located and mid priced with breakfast. Tried many but the best I’ve found value wise.
Lotus Inn Serviced Apartments – 0908 869 889 on the West Lake are very nice and also perfectly located in that area.
FOOD OPTIONS
The Local – 0828 368 814 is my go to for sports. A good set up on the water.
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4 hr 1 min (188 km)
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