Hanoi – North East Loop
Route Summary
Duration: 10 days - 2,180 kms
This for most with flights into account is the perfect two week adventure. Add a day off in Sapa and Ha Long Bay and you’ve done the Far North East properly. April/May works but ideally September/October.
Click for Route details:
Distance – 190 Kms
So far as getting out of a major city is concerned so long as you avoid peak times this is reasonably simple. I’ve mapped it from City Centre but from anywhere once on the QL32 you’re away.
The old quarter has plenty of charm and a nice walk around Hoan Kiem (Turtle) Lake or Tay Hồ at Westlake, either way they’re vibrant areas evening and morning.
As expected out of any major city plenty of traffic early but the mountains aren’t too far away and the day just keeps getting better.
(A) is a nice coffee shop break with the city left well behind.
(B) after a section following the Da River a really good lunch spot just before hitting the mountains.
(C) is in the country one of only two places I don’t have multiple recommendations for. Stayed here the first time and been ever since.
It’s not cheap so a booking.com search for an alternative but the infinity pool overlooking the farmland with nice rooms sells it for me.
Distance: 230 kms
Staying here by yourself might be considered overkill but worth every dong each time I’ve been so it draws me back. A no brainer if travelling with your partner.
A swim first up, then overlooking the infinity pool waiting for the sun, an office hard to beat. Immersed in serenity and getting some work done at the same time. A pretty good way to start the day.
The breakfast is a bit ordinary though so coffee and a selfie with the parrot and it’s time to make noise. The ride out of here gets you fired up and into the rhythm very quickly. Plenty of beauty but eyes only for apexes through this pass up with the best in Vietnam.
(A) Interrupted by a nice waterfall and coming out of Hanoi may be your first one for the trip. If this is an extension on the west you might be waterfalled out so keep at it..
(B) Is a must stop. Coffee, refreshments and for me breakfast, is available, so take some time here. If your timing is right, a popular launch point for paragliding.
,(C) Is a War Memorial Monument and another view perspective. This pass at 1,500 metres with views to the valley and distant mountains is up with the best in Vietnam for wow factor.
(D) Is around where I took these terraces mid-September 23, and the first time I seen them going to gold. One of the very lovely terraced rice regions in the country.
I’ve ventured well off the main roads in this area over the years but the narrow steep and often unsealed tracks are not without risk. If on an XR or similar, worth the time to explore.
(E & F) are well placed rest and photo stops. A few corn cobs and rice turns to tea around (F) but as we get closer to Sapa the staple takes over again.
(G) Is the best viewpoint to Mount Fansipan. At 3,143 metres “The Roof of Indochina”.
(H) On a clear day the views from this monstrosity are no doubt phenomenal though my drone gets me where I need to be for perspective so I’ve not done it.
My first time to Sapa was to a mountain village in 2012. Quaint, unique and for the minority people who live there very special. Don’t get me wrong. It’s still very much a must visit area but not for the same reasons.
Persistent harassment from sellers taking advantage of the tourist mecca has become a nuisance. Using children late into the night to coerce tourists into buying. Like Hoi An particularly but other hotspots also never to be again what it was.
A day here can be well filled with the train and cable car experience to the summit of Fansipan particularly if the visibility is good.
During the ride speakers in the gondola will educate you on the Guiness Records the service boasts. The longest 6292 metres and at its highest point 1410 metres from the ground. Was a 40 odd minute, terrifying experience for my wife.
The weather makes all the difference but it’s hard to pick from ground level. In the first photo, low cloud so nearly didn’t go, only to find above the clouds a beautiful blue sky on pillows. The second photo a lovely clear day on the ground and in the fog on the summit.
In any case it really is worth going in any conditions particularly if you are unlikely to get back again.
Distance: 260 kms
The early run out of Sapa to Lao Cai is a pleasant descent. A very busy stretch though running visitors to various transport options including the overnight train to Hanoi. Patience is required as the bus drivers have none.
You may get a photo at the China Border as your first stop.
For the next few hours we keep a view of China on our left much of the time. The mountains are sensational as is the riding.
(A) is a waterfall well placed for a break just before one of very few villages we pass through for the day. Nothing much in the way of attractions at all really but for me the whole ride is one ongoing attraction.
(B, C & D) keep you from straying. Some harsh country up here. You’re not too far from China in this section.
(E) A great coffee or food stop with this view. The food and people very good.
(F) A basic but clean and well managed hotel I’ve used a few times if you want to pull up short.
Coc Pai is a wonderful little riverside village in a deep valley. The road into it is steep in places so a bit of care in that area. I had my only bike issue touring in Vietnam here in 2020 so learned a bit about the place with my extended time there.
The road quality takes a dive after Coc Pai as does our average speed. Plenty of off rides in this area if time allows but don’t worry the map is on the hardtop as much as possible.
I rode through here in the wet a few years and where the road had been cut out of the mountains literally 100’s of small waterfalls were created. As spectacular as that was I prefer it in the dry.
Distance: 260 kms
The early ride to Ha Giang is pretty simple and as always best to get away early. Today is a photographer’s wet dream so lots to take in. Watch your speed around Ha Giang. The police are used to tourists, speak English and are very friendly but do it by the book. 700k my biggest fine ever 60 in a 50.
(A) A waterfall and early coffee stop.
(B) Out the North side of Ha Giang, Bac Sum Pass is another good stop for a break and food if you’re ready with a view tower for photos if the weather is clear.
(C) Just up the road is this popular coffee stop with great views. This is a high motorcycle tourist area and part of the well marketed ‘Ha Giang Loop’. Mostly foreigners and most inexperienced so take care around them.
(D) Plenty of great riding today and this is mapped to get you on the best of it. Nothing technical but exceptional in all aspects.
(E) Is one of the viewpoints to this rather famous section of road.
Drop (F & G) off this map to cut 30km off if short on time. Can back-track to the Northern most point tomorrow with an early start.
(H) A great panoramic view and where you will turn for the descent into Dong Van. In wet conditions particularly lots of leaf litter on this section can be hazardous if unaware.
(I) My favourite of the accommodation I’ve tried here. Plenty on offer these days though.
Distance: 120 kms
This is the best riding day in Vietnam in many ways. Interesting, challenging in places, and just beautiful. Not a long day but it will take time. If continuing through to Cao Bang get away early.
This is a memorable day ride full of panoramic city and ocean views. To get away at dawn is very special on the right day.
(A) Lung Cu Flag Pole is a box tick that is well worth doing if you bypassed it yesterday.
The stretch into (B) is a fantastic narrow wind that doesn’t go anywhere in particular. To some chickens in someone’s yard actually. Challenging but not dangerous and great views.
(C) This monument is in memory of the lives lost in the building of the happiness road. Right next to the entry to the skypass.
This next section is together with the ‘Dragon Spine’ at Ta Xua the most potentially dangerous rides here. If in doubt, delete (D & E) and stay on the main road. In 2023 they didn’t let me up there so might not even be an option any longer.
(D) to (E) extends right through to the main road though Google doesn’t show it. This is an awesome ride. The views are magnificent but in places not for the faint hearted. It isn’t technical but you need a clear head. A mistake in the wrong place could be rather final. If not riding it consider walking to the view point.
This photo I took from the top of a sketchy side path I took off the ‘Skypass’ a few years ago. One of my absolute favourite shots and one very few would have.
(F) Once back on the main road the Panorama Cafe is a good spot for a break. The views from there are also epic.
(H) This bypass anyone can safely do and should do. Sealed, wider and awesome. There’s a few view points but keep at it until these boys in green tell you you’re close enough to China.
Distance: 198 kms
Meo Vac is the mountain city, for some reason, I feel a bit drawn too. I’ve always had a good night there but always very different.
The morning walk is peaceful and the surrounding countryside up with the best in the country.
This is, in itself, another cracking ride day but hard to be amazed after the enormity of the previous two days.
More of the same you could say although not on the tourist trail so local traffic only even pre Covid. Tours are either through Ba Be Lakes to Ban Gioc or to Sapa, Ha Giang and the flagpole. Nothing much in the way of attractions but for me it’s one big attraction.
If heavy rain always be mindful in areas with steep cutaways of falling rocks or worst case landslides. Especially where you start to see a few rocks on the roads. The two passes marked on the map are crackers but don’t get off map today. Pretty harsh country.
(A, B, C & E) are photo pins on this map and to keep you going the right way.
(D) I haven’t spoilt with a photo but you’ll know it when you see it. Amazing!
Distance: 192 kms
This is a really fun day, especially with a good crew. The ride is pleasant but not challenging. The roads are more open and the speed considerably higher so you’ll make good time. I recommend an early start though because you can spend hours enjoying the off time.
(A) This first detour is worth it. Wasn’t brave enough to run the drone through the middle but doable I think if a bit closer to it. Get it wrong though and the final flight for sure.
(B & C) Are interesting photo stop areas along the way.
The enormity of the falls is quite amazing. The visual the first time you see them has quite a bit of wow factor. Even in the dry season I doubt you’ll be disappointed.
My first time there with this wild mob was, shall we say, memorable. As was that entire tour actually.
There’s plenty of food and beverage on offer so allow plenty of time at the falls. Also a lot of cool souvenir sellers if you want to take something home.
There are no swimming signs everywhere but we decided this didn’t apply to Aussies. These photos are my first time and swam every time since. The sound and the power of the water off the falls is very impressive. An experience not to be missed.
There are guards with whistles but this Aussie mob have bad hearing and they gave up. Busy stopping others trying to follow our lead though.
Tourists are well catered for with activities. There are tourist boats on both the Vietnam and China side of the falls. The boat ride too, worth the minimal fee.
I’ve got you on a loop and the run back is an excellent part of this ride. We start following the river which is the China border then for many maybe in over a month you turn to head South.
(E) is a detour to some caves but not this one pictured which is over our route. A big surprise for me the first time I approached it. Not something you see everyday.
(F) will get you back to town and (G) to my preferred accommodation.
Distance: 340 kms
Everywhere we go there is a morning market of some kind. Cao Bang market on the Song Bang river is one of the best in the country. The morning walk around it and along the river is very entertaining. Ironically the other market to rival this is in Ca Mau at the polar opposite end of the country.
This ride looks pretty ordinary on the map compared to the tight stuff we’ve been doing but is in reality very sweeping and perfect on the bigger bikes.
Once on the border road the minority people are easy to spot and interesting in their unique native clothing.
You’ll be literally following the border fence with a view to a very sparsely populated area of China.
(D) is this great border landmark well hidden for a photo with your trusty steed.
I don’t fly my drone near the border but this elevated area on the border track shows the fence and the cut in’s through the bush to build it on the Vietnam side. Not hard to work out who is keeping who out!
It’s a big day but you’ll make good time early. The border run later is slow going so very early start or break it into two days.
(E) is a war museum. If you drop (D & E) you can go straight to Mong Cai and run the border track tomorrow on your way to Ha Long
(F) A hotel I’ve used a few times well located but plenty of choice in accommodation options.
(G) The main border crossing. This shot was taken during Covid. Very different now with the border open. The Chinese investment is obvious, clean and modern.
Also this one during the Covid closures but still found a few interesting places open for a beer all be it a bit deserted.
Distance: 250 kms
We’ll start the day with a ride out the peninsula with a view to China’s Beibu Gulf.
(A) Security were a bit precious about my being there last time but worth a look. The Northernmost coastal point and just pipped by Mui Doi on the peninsula North of Nha Trang for Easternmost.
This is the day we have the most interaction with authorities for the entire trip. We are right on the border fence through the morning and a very interesting ride. Stay compliant and polite and you get away with being nosey 
(B) The war museum and (C) a trade border crossing. This was closed over Covid obviously but as recent as September 2023 still not reopened.
(D) Quite evident by the access roads to the border fence it’s the Vietnamese who constructed it and many years before any Covid threat.
The minority villagers along the way are not the prettiest example of Vietnamese woman but friendly and hospitable all the same.
(E) is a fuel station. One of very few before you hit the coast.
(F) if you’re running okay time wise this is a good rest and swim stop before you hit the coast. Don’t get excited about revisiting the coastline for a swim. Whilst the far North wins in the mountain wonder, the South definitely has the beaches.
Once we loop back to the main road it’s the least beautiful coastline in the country towards Ha Long. Coal fired power stations and the trucks litter the road with waste that becomes a filthy slurry. Wash the bikes on the way into Ha Long. I imagine it’s very acidic.
(G) Is a swim beach and very few in the region so worth dropping in.
The bay, though also polluted, has the same beautiful monoliths as Tam Coc and Phong Nha but is surrounded by ocean. One of the better known and visited coastal tourist attractions in the country which I find a little ironic.
Spoilt for choice with accommodation here so worth a hotel’s search for a bargain. I’ve stayed at many over the years but only (G) On the map grabbed me. Not cheap but exceptional if you’d like to spoil yourself.
If you have a free day, book an overnight boat experience around the islands. It’s not overly expensive and a few good options in the notes if it appeals. Did this the first time in 2012. Old wooden and quite rudimentary vessels back then. The most recent experience was considerably different.
Distance: 140 kms
There’s no interesting way of doing this. All options are busy so you might as well stick to the wide road and just get it done. If you think HCM drivers and riders are reckless wait until you see the antics of some of these characters. They will look at you and still pull out. It’s like they’re stamping their authority.
If you stay in the Old Quarter on a weekend the Hoan Kiem Lake is shut off to traffic and a pretty cool scene. Buskers and some street performers getting up to some interesting antics. Kids kicking the shuttlecocks in some form of foot badminton.
Plenty of bar and restaurant options in this area also. If sending the bike back on the train this area is much closer to the train station.
The Tay Ho, West Lakes area is the other to consider for your accommodation. Most expats live in this area and also it has plenty of great restaurant and bar options also.
Almost always monkey’s crossing the road or sitting around relaxing, especially during cooler hours of the day.
Good place to wake up to. The morning walk around this lake is exceptional as far as major cities go.
