Da Nang – Phong Nha Loop
Route Summary
Duration: 5 days - 1,025 Kms
Route description coming soon.
Click for Route details:
Distance: 180 kms
This is a relatively short ride day so no time pressure to get at it early. The early riser though, is regularly rewarded with a beautiful sunrise on busy beaches.
One of my preferred morning beach cities for the vibe. Several ladies in their dancing groups mixing exercise with social entertainment.
For those who get at it early, the morning views from the Monkey Pass over Danang City and from the Hai Van pass of the ocean are quite spectacular so long as there is no low cloud.
For those on automatic transmission scooters delete (A, B & C) as they are NOT allowed on the Monkey Pass.
You need to be aware that trucks carrying flammables are not allowed in the tunnel so run over the pass. This is less frequent with many using the expressway around behind the pass.
Watch for two coming at you side by side in unrealistic overtaking maneuvers in any case.
(D) Is the coffee stop at the top of the Pass. Plenty of sellers there with souvenirs etc. Some fortresses too, battle scarred from gunfire to hold ground between the North and South historically.
Some nice views coming off the pass on the North side too but keep focused on the job and park safely for photography.
(E) Is your seafood lunch stop right on the beach. A few options in the area. All good, but this one has western seating and always been happy with the food.
(F) After lunch this map will take you to another interesting coastal area. Then onto an island with some interesting and ornate centuries old burial sites.
There is a lot to do around Hue. To the North, the Vinh Moc Tunnels are interesting but nothing further on the coast really. The citadel is right in town. If it’s a hot day, take plenty of water. I find with the high perimeter walls it’s uncomfortably hot in there.
A sunset boat ride up the river for sunset is a nice finish for the day and relatively inexpensive.
Distance: 195 kms
Get down to the river early. It’s a nice vibe with the locals exercising along the boardwalk and fisherman beating the sun in their open boats.
This isn’t a big day travel time wise but you can burn some time at the stops. A nice early start following the Perfume River out of Hue.
(A, B & C) are all historic points of interest. A good coffee stop right in front at the left turn up the top.
(D) on the map is Hamburger Hill, the site of a significant battle offensive in May 1969. There is a memorial at the top and a number of other sites off the main track.
It’s quite a climb and as I understand it you are supposed to have a guide although I did it by myself. Adds only 15 kms to the day but some time. Take water if tackling this.
Even if you decide against the climb it’s a great area to go exploring off this map in any case. I went alone the first time and all went okay but very remote so I advise sticking to the main tracks if by yourself.
From there we meet up with the HCM Road and follow the Thach Han River. Some really nice swim and photo opportunities along this stretch.
(E) on the map the best of them.
(F & G) again historical sites keeping you on the right path.
(G) is the US Military Combat Base. Opens at 7.30am if you get in late and well worth a look for the modest entry fee. Quite a bit to learn there if you want to commit the time.
Distance: 230 kms
This is not a huge day distance wise but will take longer than you think. With an early start you’ll get it done comfortably at a relaxed pace though. This stretch of the Ho Chi Minh Road is quite simply a must do experience in this country. Mostly a raked concrete surface with plenty of grip but hard on tyre’s and challenging in places if riding spiritedly. Landslides are common through here so be mindful of sand or clay on corners. My favourite ride day between Danang and Hanoi.
There’s a good Banh Mi lady just down the hill from Green Hotel. Doesn’t hurt to grab a second one to take with you. Not a lot of culinary options on offer today. The other tags are either accommodation options or places of interest.
These days there is fuel available about half way but as always a good idea to fill before you leave and take water. Not too much in the way of services through much of this.
(A) The US Military Combat Base. Opens at 7.30am and is well worth a look for the modest entry fee. Quite a bit to learn there if you want to commit the time.
(B & C) are nice swim spots well located for rest stops.
(D) a good photo stop.
(E) one of few accommodation options if you wanted to break it up.
(F) another photo stop and
(G) a higher end accommodation option in the village on the river.
Phong Nha township on the banks of the Son River is part of Phong Nha-Kẻ Bàng National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The area has developed in recent years as a popular tourist destination. Even with the interruption of Covid a popular destination for domestic travelers, locals and expats alike.
Attractions include numerous caves to explore. Phong Nha Cave is a leisurely river cruise through caves under the mountains and Paradise Cave, a little more traditional dry cave is cheap and readily accessible. At the high end Hang Son Doong is reportedly the world’s largest cave with its own very unique ecosystem and a four day commitment far from cheap to explore.
Also of note the limestone and bauxite monoliths rising from a vast floodplain where the land sections in the making of King Kong were filmed makes part of a great motorcycling day loop.
(H) Is my go to out of town on the plain. Well appointed comfortable ensuite hotel rooms to pool villas with a well stocked bar, great pool and an extensive menu.
Distance: 240 kms
The road we refer to as Ho Chi Minh East is such a riding experience that this mix of Ho Chi Minh West and coastal is often overlooked. Though very different it is in itself a great ride day with some very interesting stops. A great addition to one of the most rewarding loop rides out of Danang.
(A) Is primarily a pin to keep you off the A1. A bridge over the river so a good first rest break and photo for the day.
(B) Quang Tri Ancient Citadel is located in the centre of what is now a significant town. For 150 years it was historically the administrative centre during the Nguyen Dynasty. More recently in 1972, much of it was destroyed during 81 days of battle but much of it restored to preserve its history. I reckon there’d be fish in the moat but not game until I see a local at it! 
(C) Is an interesting well located break stop again a pin to keep you away from the main arterial.
(D) is the highlight of this day. If you skip the rest this is certainly worth your time. Over 2 km of tunnels with 7 exit points to the beach.
Unlike the much better known and marketed Cu Chi Tunnels these are 175cm high and wide enough to be comfortably explored by foreigners.
They were not built to fight either but to hide. The villagers, thought to be helping supply the Northern army were under attack from the South and built these for refuge.
Three levels down to 30 metres were dug as the underground safe haven for sixty families between 1966 and 1972 and so successful that no reported lives were lost and 17 children were born in them during that time.
An amazing experience the first time from the darkness to find an exit to a beautiful day and beach.
Put some time aside to visit the museum also. I’m not mad about museums generally but over several visits also go away better educated from time spent here.
(E) Around the monument are a plethora of seafood restaurants. Tried a few different ones over the years and it’s hard to divide them. All good and cheap.
(F) Is a coffee stop that also has unique accommodation right on the beach. If short on time or as a preference to overnight in the city, a good option.
(G) The expanse of rice to this bridge is a photo I couldn’t find. This one after plantation is not nearly as spectacular but you get the idea.
(H) Is the boardwalk along the river and a perfect start to the morning.
(I) my preferred hotel these days of the options listed. The price, staff, rooms and location tick all the boxes for me.
Distance: 180 kms
A shorter day distance wise but plenty of stops and photo opportunities along the way. The dawn down on the river is a nice way to start the day. Plenty of locals out and about early also enjoying that.
(A) Just gets you out of the city on the right road to the island and fishing villages.
(B) One of many Temples in the area. Centuries old burial sites are also on the island.
(C) A lovely beach area and (D) plenty of locally caught seafood on offer for lunch.
(E) The top of the Hai Van Pass has been of significant strategic importance in the history of Vietnam. The narrow passage was a major barrier to any land army that attempted to move between the northern and central regions of the country in war times.
It’s easy to get carried away with the riding over the pass but take the time to park safely for a few photos and be mindful of fuel trucks who need some of your side of the road on switchbacks. Unrealistic passing maneuvers are also quite common.
The Monkey Pass (E & F) is another great scenic ride with beautiful views over the coast and Da Nang, Vietnam’s third largest city.
